The Moonage Daydream slushie, made with tequila, pineapple, and mint. She died of COVID-19 in 2020 and is the oma that inspired the name of the restaurant. Throughout his time as a chef - from his years cooking in New England to his time designing Oma’s menu - Thomas Pisha-Duffly has incorporated techniques and recipes from the cooking of his Indonesian-Chinese grandmother, Kiong Tien Vandenberg. The first time Tom’s sister ate at Gado Gado, she said ‘This is great - it’s not authentic to Indonesian food, but it’s very authentic to our family.’” They’re very true to him and his family, the way he explores his identity through food,” Mariah says. “Tom’s menus can be really hard to pin down, hard to explain conceptually because they’re so specific to him. It’s hard to categorize then again, so is Thomas Pisha-Duffly. The restaurant will charcoal-roast game hens, stuff sausages with foie and Chinese duck, and stack fried soft-shell crabs on a sandwich with salted egg yolk mayo and green papaya slaw.įor dessert, customers can choose between things like durian tiramisu and fruity pebble treats. The restaurant has a glitzy corner dedicated to lacquered meats: charcoal roasted belly and shoulder arrives with lettuce and herbs for wrapping, chicharrones, pickles, dark soy gula jawa, sambal terasi, and the shop’s quintessential aromatic rice pork spare ribs come in a fish sauce caramel, with sour tamarind and tomato sambal. But the couple’s initial plan - to lean into night market, Chinese barbecue culinary styles - remains in place. The opening menu at Oma’s will include a few new dishes and a few of the greatest hits from chef Thomas Pisha-Duffly’s roster: Oma’s corn fritters and the Oma-zing burger with fried shallots remain on the menu from the Oma’s Takeaway days, and the chef will be making his own noodles once again. The restaurant’s version of the Italian dessert comes with sesame crumble and chocolate milo powder. The menu pulls inspiration from various cuisines, from China to Malaysia to Indonesia to old-school American diner food.
#OMA RESTAURANT FULL#
On May 22, the restaurant reopens as Oma’s Hideaway, with a full new menu, cocktails from Eem’s Eric Nelson, and a ‘70s pop art wonderland aesthetic.Ĭrispy curry sweetbreads on a pandan waffle sit among other plates at Oma’s Hideaway. But Oma’s had changed significantly, becoming something more like a new Americana: Tom Pisha-Duffly worked with sous chef Ian Schoening to pull inspiration from their various backgrounds to create dishes like five-spice tater tots with curry ketchup and Ambrosia salad with matcha whipped cream, served on the restaurant’s back patio.īut in the beginning of 2021, the couple decided to close the restaurant, to re-imagine what the space could be.
The pop-up became a hit, and when Gado Gado reopened for outdoor dining later that summer, the couple decided to move Oma’s Takeaway into the former Whiskey Soda Lounge space. Smith / EPDXīack in April 2020, when Gado Gado was closed as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, the Pisha-Dufflys launched an “Asian stoner food” pop-up called Oma’s Takeaway. The restaurant originally opened as Oma’s Takeaway, but after a hiatus at the beginning of 2021, the restaurant has reopened with a new concept. The exterior of Oma’s Hideaway, in the former Whiskey Soda Lounge space. Even my family that’s really out there said, ‘Woah, this is crazy.’” “I can guarantee that no one has walked into a restaurant that looks like Oma’s looks. “If there was any timidity with Gado Gado, Oma’s is taking it up even further a few notches, into this very playful, fun, vibrant place,” Mariah Pisha-Duffly says. Rainbow lights are screwed into the restaurant’s chandeliers. Black-light posters, collected by Mariah, hang on the walls, alongside ‘70s-style light fixtures. So stepping into Oma’s Hideaway, the newest iteration of the couple’s second restaurant, feels very true to that same spirit: The restaurant sports two separate bars tiled with rhinestones, iridescent shelves, shiny gold-embossed table coverings. For those who know Mariah and Thomas Pisha-Duffly, the owners of Gado Gado, it felt very true to them: At a 2019 Feast after-party, the two set up fire pits in the front parking lot and served meats roasted on a spit - it felt like something between the best backyard barbecue and a hip pop-up, with a psychedelic, effortlessly cool energy.
When Oma’s Takeaway emerged as a takeout tent outside pseudo-Indonesian spot Gado Gado, it felt like a tiny, contained party: A disco ball turned over packed orders of Flamin’ Hot chicharrones and popcorn shrimp in sweet chili mayo, where music would blare and plants sat perched on tables in the parking lot.
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